Sunday, March 04, 2007

South Africa 2007

Maps

We had a great trip. The countryside is beautiful and diverse. As you can see from the map of Africa, South Africa is small, and in South Africa, we saw only the western cape province.

Africa


South Africa


The area we traveled is seen in the map below of the western Cape.



We traveled to the Cape of Good Hope, from Cape Town north towards Yzerfontein, east from there to Malmesbury, through Wellington, Paarl, Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, to Somerset West. We went from Somerset West to Betty's Bay, Kleinmond to Hermanus and on another trip through to Swellendam, Mossel Bay, George, Knysna, Plettenburg, Oudtshoorn, Prince Albert, Ladismith, Montagu, Robertson, and back through Franschhoek. We spent a little time in Cape Town proper. We drove over 3000kms but saw only a fraction of the country. There's a lot to see for another trip.

Needless to say, we were very lucky to have Hilda and Vic there. It was wonderful to have 'home base' in Somerset West and to be guided to the best places to visit. We enjoyed spending time with them there, as much as we enjoyed them here in Vienna. We are grateful for Hilda and Vic and thank them for their warm hospitality.

I hope that you enjoy the blog entries. I included a brief journal entry to explain some of the photos. Please don't feel obliged to read them, unless they are of interest to you. I have only included a fraction of the 1892 (5gB) photos and videos that we took. I hope that you enjoy them.

South Africa 2007

Food

We ate very well in Cape Town and surroundings. There are high quality restaurants and the prices are very reasonable compared to Europe. We enjoyed some of the Cape Malay foods, especially Bobotie, which I really liked. We tasted and heard about things that we never heard about before.. dried meats: Biltong; Steaks: Kudu, Springboek; Fish: cape salmon (geelbek), elf (or shad), hake, haarders, hottentot (bream), kabeljou, kingklip, monkfish, musselcracker, red roman, red steenbras, skate, snoek, sole, stumpnose, tunny, yellowtail, crayfish, trout, etc. We had excellent oysters (especially good at http://www.knysnaoysters.co.za/) and amazing calamari. It was a culinary delight. Here are some recipes and things that I thought were interesting with respect to food: Cape Bobotie, Biltong, Sour Figs, Gooseberry jam. The wines are amazing and there are too many to name here. I have included the wineries and some of the wines that we tried in later entries.

Cape Bobotie






I included one recipe here, but as you can see from the photos, there are many different types and recipes.

Bobotie recipe (http://www.rainbownation.com/recipes/recipe.asp?type=2&id=9) The origins of Bobotie can be traced back to the eastern influence on South African culture. The Cape Malay society is famous for cooking this dish and it is usually served with yellow rice.

Ingredients
1 kg minced lamb
125ml milk
1 thick slice of white bread, crust removed and soaked in milk
2 roughly chopped onions butter
Salt
1 tablespoon of curry powder (mix the hot and the Cape Malay versions for a good flavour)
1 chili, finely chopped (optional and only if you like your food quite hot)
½ cup vinegar
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
1 teaspoon of brown sugar
1 tablespoon of chutney
8 -10 crushed almonds (optional)
3 eggs
1 clove of garlic, crushed and finely chopped
6 bay leaves
1 orange, sliced in wheels
1 lemon, sliced in wheels
Oil for cooking

Heat the oil in frying pan and add the garlic, onion and curry power. Cook over medium heat for three minutes, then add the mincemeat. Fry until the meat is almost done, then using your hands, squeeze the milk from the bread. Discard the milk and add the bread, vinegar, lemon juice, sugar and chutney to the mince. Fry for a minute or so and then remove from heat. Take a pie dish and place three bay leaves, two wheels of orange and two wheels of lemon at the bottom. Now scoop the mince mixture into the dish. Decorate the sides of the dish with the rest of the lemon and orange wheels, wedging them between the mince and the sides of the dish so that only a third protrudes. If you are using almonds, push them into the mince. Beat the eggs and 125ml milk, and pour over the meat. Put three bay leaves on top of dish. Place the dish uncovered in the oven and cook for about 30 minutes at 160 deg Celsius. Serve with a plain green salad or chopped tomato and onion, sprinkled with a little vinegar. Make sure you have some chutney near at hand. Serve piping hot with the yellow rice.



Biltong



For Biltong check this web site: http://www.biltongmakers.com/biltong10_recipes0_quick.html

Sour figs


GHOENA IN A GLASS JAR
Errieda du Toit enthuses about our underrated, indigenous sour fig.

The moment you see a jar of suurvykonfyt at a farm stall, grab it. Stockpiling is an even better option. If not familiar with the various types of sour fig, don’t fret. Even some seasoned botanists don’t always know their ghoenas from their ghôkums (names for the plants adapted from Khoi words).

Sour figs belong to the vygie family Mosembryanthemacea. Each of its eight indigenous species Carpobrotus bears edible fruit (the only ones from 1 500 vygie types do so!)

C. edulis is the botanical name for the yellow-flowered perdevy or hotnotsvy, which is fairly common from the Sandveld and the West Coast to the Richtersveld. The berries are quite sweet even when green, while the ripe berry is brown and leathery in appearance.
The true sour fig C. acinaciformis with its purple flowers, is found in the Southern Cape Strandveld (including Bredasdorp and Swellendam), as well as Melkbosstrand. It makes a delicious jam with distinctive salty-sour taste when made from fruit ripened till leathery and shriveled. (Beware, it tastes very tart when green).

C. muirii is a sour fig indigenous only to the Strandveld at Stilbaai, and is prized for its beautiful purple flowers and sweet fruit.

The mountain fig C. mellei, with its pink-purple flowers only grows in sandstone mountains of the Western Cape.

The elandsvy, C. quadrifidus from the West Coast Strandveld bears the largest and most beautiful flowers of all. The fruit is delectably sweet and it can be eaten before it dries out. When travelling to the Eastern Cape, look out for Ghôkum (C. deliciosus) – its Latin name indicates just how good the half-round fruit tastes.

Sour fig in a jar:
For tips on making sour fig jam, I turned to the writings of an expert and forerunner of Slow Food: Betsie Rood, who was raised on the West Coast, and spent 12 years researching indigenous plants, documenting edible veld plants for her benchmark book ‘Kos uit die Veldkombuis’ (Food from the Veld Kitchen).

Her aim was 'not to get readers to go out there and pick them, because many have become extinct or are difficult to source, but to preserve the knowledge of this heritage for future generations.' She corresponded with over 2 000 country cooks to compile her book, which makes fascinating reading.


In her memoirs, Uit die Waaisand en die Kalkklippe (From Driftsand and Limestone), she wrote about the art of ‘konfytkook’, and the special talent needed to get sour fig jam just right. 'It took the skills of a seasoned jam maker like my mother to transform the slightly woody fruits into sticky, dark sour fig jam.' She advised that the best time to make sour fig jam was between Christmas and New Year, wryly commenting, 'as if we hadn’t already more than enough cooking on our hands during this time…'


For readers with jam-making aspirations, this is Betsie’s method:
Soak the fruit in boiled water till the hard dry outer leaves are soft. Then embark on the painstaking cleaning process and remove the stamen and the tough bottom part of the fruit. (The trick is to leave the fruit intact throughout the preparation process). Boil carefully till soft, then cook in a syrup to form konfyt. Pack in sterilized jars, top with syrup and seal.

The syrup is the same as that used for waatlemoenkonfyt. Ratios: 500g sugar: 500g fruit: 750ml-1 litre water: 1½ tablespoons lemon juice.

Sour figs in supermarkets:
With its unique salty-sour taste, sour figs can hold their own against exotic produce the world over. Yet they are still the stepchild of the South African fruit industry.

According to botanist Ernst van Jaarsveld, the sour fig is largely ignored compared with the Citrullus vugaris (an African watermelon species), rooibos tea, and even honey bush tea (Cyclopia), which have made inroads into international markets.

Sour figs have the potential for a hassle-free coastal crop, as this hardy plant happily grows in wind-swept coastal regions, where other crops would battle to survive. As with most vygies, it grows easily from cuttings and its seeds are spread by rain. The plant also adapts easily to a temperarate climate.

Doctor Sourfig:
It calms sore throats, relieves burns, stings, rashes and painful sores. The juice is a remedy for treating blue bottle stings. It is also used as a laxative and purgative.

Sources:
Ernst van Jaarsveld, Die Burger; Betsie Rood, Uit die Waaisand en die Kalkklippe;Renata Coetzee, Spys en Drank.



Cape Gooseberry jam



1. Step one includes basics like de-caping & washing
2. The second step would possibly be to cut fruit into fours. My mum actually likes the taste of a complete berry in her mouth, so we skipped this step.
3. Either way, cut or whole, the fruit needs to be squished & squashed mercilessly.
4. After this add a 1/4 tsp of salt, 4-5 1-inch bits of Cinnamon Stick (for flavor).
5. Add 1/2 cup of water and 1 cup of sugar (to taste). Unfortunately my mum is a great cook and doesn’t really measure anything (cooks ‘andaaz-se’), so I’m quoting approximates here.
6. Put on a high fire & cook.
7. It will boil, keep cooking & stirring
8. Keep on stirring - the aim is to dry out the water - get it thickened till it reaches a jam consistency.
9. When ready the jam will have a beautiful glaze. Notice after cooking the color has changed from yellow to brown.
10. Leave to cool & then bottle.

South Africa 2007

Hilda and Vic's





We arrived early Sunday morning at 0600. The trip was very long. We flew to Frankfurt, waited for 4 hours and then made our way with South African Air directly to Cape Town. After 12 hours of flying and 4 films, we were there. I didn’t manage to sleep a wink. Oskar did some napping, but not much. We were met by Hilda and Vic at the airport and proceeded to wait another 1.5 hours to get our rental car, a Chico from VW. What a car. It’s white and looks like a Golf built in the 70’s. It even has a choke. There is air conditioning (which was very loud), but all the rest of it is very primitive. Oskar followed Vic and Hilda to Somerset West, where they homesteaded. It’s a great house. A Main house behind a large cement and iron fence, with electric doors that open for the car. We followed their white Mercedes into the driveway next to the Subaru 4-wheel drive, SUV. They have great trees in the front of the house with a lovely garden. It’s very tropical appearing. It almost looks like Fort Lauderdale. We brought our bags inside and started emptying the 17 kg of gifts for Vic and Hilda. We don’t have a lot of clothes for us now. It’s kind of surprising to see that I will have to wear the same skirts many times over the next three weeks.



Saturday, March 03, 2007

South Africa 2007

The Strand and Gordon's Bay





Vergelegen estate






























We were very tired, and after breakfast that included lovely croissants from the Le Jardin Francais, in Somerset West, we slept for a couple of hours. We then took a drive with Vic to the Strand and Gordon’s Bay. It was very pleasant. The views of False Bay from that perspective were beautiful. False Bay stretches from Gordon's Bay along the coastline towards Cape Town, all the way to the charming fishing village of Kalk Bay and onto Fish Hoek. The most impressive feature of False Bay is its lovely beaches, where the water is between 3 and 5ºC warmer than on the Atlantic Seaboard side. Gordon's Bay is a harbour town in the Western Cape province close to Die Strand. It is situated on the northeastern corner of False Bay. It is in the Helderberg region.

We went to Vergelegen winery (www.vergelegen.co.za) to visit their gardens and to taste some wine. It is a beautiful place. Here is the history from the website:

Vergelegen, meaning "situated far away", was granted to the Governor of the Cape in 1700 and the property has had a long and fascinating history since that time. Willem Adriaan Van der Stel, was a man of divergent interests who transformed the uncultivated land into a veritable paradise. He planted vines, camphor trees and oaks, laid out fruit orchards and orange groves, and introduced cattle and sheep. During its long history Vergelegen has developed a unique culture. It is embodied in physical properties, in its people and in the more aesthetic traditions down over the last 300 years. The property still gives pleasure to its numerous visitors with its layout, including the historic camphor trees and octagonal garden, the stately homestead and the fertile valley where fine wines are grown. Today, it is one of those rare places where the visitor can begin a progressive discovery into a world that harmonises the past and present; where an air of dreaminess pervades; and where synergy between man and his bountiful environment is accomplished. Vergelegen is thought to have originated in 1685 when the High Commissioner of the Dutch East India Company instructed Commander Simon van der Stel to relocate the company's outpost in the Hottentots Holland. The company had bought the grounds in 1672 from the chiefs of the tribe that owned it. Simon van der Stel personally saw to the proportional planning of this new outpost with its posthouse, wheat store, cowsheds, orchards, vegetable gardens, wheat store and ditches, according to the "rules of mathematics and architecture". It is thought to have remained an outpost until 1 February 1700 when the 342 ha of freehold land were granted to William Adriaan van der Stel, the new governor of the Cape. (Willem Adriaan was the son of Governor Simon van der Stel who founded the famous Groot Constantia Estate in the Cape.) On his retirement his son became Governor and also the owner of Vergelegen - meaning, "situated far away". He planted vines and, after six years, had half a million vine stocks. He laid out fruit orchards and orange groves; he planted camphors and oaks; he established eighteen cattle stations with 1000 cattle and 1800 sheep. He made reservoirs, dug irrigation canals and controlled the Lourens River. Willem Adriaan also built a beautiful homestead, a corn mill and many other subsidiary buildings. The younger van der Stel was a man of divergent interests and he transformed the uncultivated land into a veritable paradise. For years he was in bitter dispute with Adam Tas and other Free Burghers. Finally his enemies triumphed and the directors of the Dutch East India Company, in a letter dated 30th October 1706, ignominiously dismissed him and ordered him to return to the Netherlands. Three years later, on the implicit instructions of the Company, Vergelegen was sold and divided into 4 separate farms. The homestead was ordered to be demolished, which only partially happened. Vergelegen passed through a succession of owners until 1798, when the Theunissen family took ownership of it for over a century. Under their care, the vineyards flourished. In 1917 Sir Lionel purchased the property for his wife Florence Phillips, who spent vast sums on the restoration of the old homestead, library and gardens. The old footbridge was replaced by a structure wide enough to accommodate motor traffic, roads were constructed and dams built. The vineyards were removed and replaced with mixed agriculture.After the death of Sir Lionel and later Lady Florence Phillips, Charles ëPunchí Barlow and his wife Cynthia acquired the estate in June 1941. Cynthia Barlow was as devoted to Vergelegen as Lady Phillips had been and it was fortunate that she had been able to purchase many of the beautiful pieces of furniture and works of art accumulated by Lady Florence. To this collection she added her own considerable treasures and the tradition of Vergelegen was maintained. The Barlowís resumed farming operations on Vergelegen and began planting vines on a small scale. 'Punch' Barlow's son Tom took over the running of the farm in 1966 until Anglo American Farms limited purchased the property in October 1987. One of the many projects undertaken by Anglo American Farms was to begin replanting the vineyards, following intensive climatic and soil tests. This historic property is now coming into its own as a showpiece of South Africaís recent wine renaissance. Throughout its history celebrities of international renown have frequently visited Vergelegen. Over the last decade Vergelegen has been honoured by the visits of the full Executive Committee of the ANC, Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh, and in March 1998 by Nelson Mandela and Bill Clinton with their First Ladies.

We had a delicious dinner at home that evening and fell into bed exhausted.